Plonk!
Sydney Morning Herald
Thursday March 31, 2011
Peter Bourne nominates his four favourite wines of the month.2009 Cigale Mourv’dre Shiraz Grenache (Barossa Valley, SA), $22 Cigale is Peter Schell's second-tier range and follows in the footsteps of his Spinifex Papillon ($28) with similarly fresh, bright flavours and concentrated yet light-footed structure. The flavours are of redcurrants and blackcurrants, with a touch of blackberry and fresh aniseed. The tannins are mild-mannered, making it a perfect partner to spicy chorizo sausages. In his Cigale, Peter Schell uses a blend of mourv’dre, shiraz and grenache. Most wine drinkers are familiar with shiraz and grenache but mourv’dre is far from a mainstream grape. Like many Mediterranean varieties, its origins are in some dispute, with historic evidence placing its birthplace as the town of Matar’ in Catalonia, around 500BC. Hence the use of mourv’dre's traditional synonym, mataro, in this country. The French know it as mourv’dre, derived from the Catalan town of Murviedro (now Sagunto). Whatever name you give it, mourv’dre's bold, brawny character makes it a wonderful blending partner - adding colour, tannin and an inky complexity to its Rh’ne companions grenache, syrah and minor varieties of cinsault and carignan. In Australia, mourv’dre has appeared in historic blends such as Penfolds Bin 2 Shiraz Mataro, Wendouree Shiraz Mataro and the Veritas Winery's aptly named Bull's Blood. More recently, Australian winegrowers have followed the Rh’ne Valley recipe, placing mourv’dre as the bit player with shiraz and grenache to form the increasingly popular GSM blends. Mourv’dre's colour is profound and its flavours honest. Perhaps the greatest attribute of mourv’dre is its firm tannin backbone, its earthy complexity and its sheer volume of flavour. To experience mourv’dre in full flight, try the benchmark Domaine Tempier Bandol Classique (2008, due soon at $60) or a local hero, the 2008 Hewitson Old Garden Mourv’dre ($72). Either way you'll be bowled over. GLOBAL STAR2008 Ch’teau Coupe Roses Minervois Les Plots (Languedoc, France), $35 Coupe Roses is French slang for "rosy cheeks"and this red could bring on a flush. It's a blend of syrah, grenache and carignan, the ubiquitous variety of the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Violet, dark cherry and dried herb aromas lead to a supple palate. The minerally finish makes it a good soulmate for a cassoulet. GREAT BYO OPTION2010 De Bortoli La Boh’me Act One Semillon Sauvignon Rolle (Yarra Valley, Victoria), $23 Steve Webber is a great innovator. Act One steps outside the usual semillon sauvignon blanc blend square with a splash of rolle. Best known as the Italian variety vermentino, rolle adds a savoury note. Its textural richness makes it an excellent foil for grilled sardines. CHEAP AND CHIC2009 Domaine Bondeville Ros’ (Languedoc, France), $16Provence is the heartland of French ros’, though Domaine Bondeville comes from a co-operative Languedoc region to the west. Nonetheless, it's made in distinctive French style - fresh and fruity yet clean and dry. Pale salmon in colour, it has supple raspberry and redcurrant flavours and a crisp, refreshing finish. Try it with spaghetti vongole.
© 2011 Sydney Morning Herald
