Spicing up shellfish
Newcastle Herald
Wednesday March 30, 2011
THERE is an old wives' tale that circulates regularly stating you should discard any mussels that do not open on cooking.The myth has been traced back to a popular 1973 cookery book by English author Jane Grigson, who stated "throw away any mussels that refuse to open".It is thought this was a result of concerns at the time about some European mussels being dredged from polluted beds.But a little more than 10 per cent of mussels will stay closed after being cooked and this is normal. Australian blue mussels are perfectly fine to eat if they don't open and can be cooked a little longer, or the shell can be prised open with a knife.As mussels are steamed, they open when the muscle inside the shell breaks. If that muscle doesn't sever or separate from the shell, the mussel will not open.Versatile mussels can make a meal in minutes and require minimal preparation, especially if you buy them already prepared. If not, simply wash them briefly in cold water, discard any that don't stay closed when tapped and remove the beard with a knife if it hasn't already been removed.Mussels can be cooked in under three minutes if steamed in a pot, making them the ultimate fast food.When buying, look for ones that are closed, full of water and heavy for their size.They should also have a fresh sea smell and the shells should close if tapped. Store live mussels out of water in a cool environment and cover them with ice, but don't soak them or store them in airtight containers. As with all seafood, eat as soon as possible after purchase.Smart ways with musselsHEAT a splash of vegetable oil in a wok or large pan and add chopped garlic and ginger and stir for one minute. Add Thai green curry paste and stir until aromatic.Add a splash of water, cleaned mussels and a can of coconut cream and cook, covered, for a few minutes until most of the mussels open. Sprinkle with chopped coriander and mint. Serve with jasmine rice.€“ Chop green onions and garlic and saut’ in a little olive oil in a large frying pan. When soft, add a cup of white wine, some stock, mussels and a few sprigs of fresh tarragon. Cover and cook for a few minutes then remove mussels with a slotted spoon. Add cream to the juices and stir well. Pour over the mussels and serve with crusty bread.€“ Steam mussels in white wine for a few minutes then when cool enough to handle remove them from their shells.Puree cooked pumpkin and place in the centre of serving plates. Combine shelled mussels with a can of chickpeas, chopped tomato, wild rocket and vinaigrette dressing. Serve the mixture on top of the pumpkin puree.Steamed mussels with herb, chilli tomato sauceIngredients1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil3 brown eschalots, sliced2 cloves garlic, finely chopped1 cup dry white wine2 x 400g cans diced tomatoes2 bay leaves3 sprigs thyme1-2 tsp dried chilli flakes (or to taste)1 tsp sugar2 tbsp tomato paste2kg de-bearded mussels€š cup chopped curly parsley€š cup pouring creamSourdough bread, to serveMethodHEAT olive oil in a large deep pan and cook eschalots and garlic over low heat for two to three minutes.Add white wine and bring to the boil.Simmer for three minutes then add tomatoes, bay leaves, thyme, dried chilli flakes, sugar and tomato paste, stir well and bring to the boil.Add mussels, cover and cook over high heat for two to three minutes, shaking pan occasionally.Using a slotted spoon, remove mussels as soon as they open and place in a large serving dish. Remove pan from heat and add parsley and cream. Stir well.Pour sauce over mussels and serve immediately with sourdough bread.Serves 4Lynne Mullins is an award-winning food writer,restaurant critic and author of seven cookbooks,including Lite and Luscious.
© 2011 Newcastle Herald
