Bars

Fratelli Paradiso branches out with this popular wine bar. 10 William Street, Paddington. Phone: 9360 3310. Open Mon-Thurs, 5pm until midnight; Fri-Sat, noon until late.

The watchdog, his wife, and their winery

How ASIC chairman Tony D'Aloisio became a vigneron, write Scott Rochfort, Michael West and Ian Verrender.

Plonk!

Peter Bourne nominates his four favourite wines of the month.

liquid assets

The etiquette of wine ...

Reader Events

dinner @ Bennelong

Secrets among the splendour

The undisclosed sale of a financially troubled winery to the ASIC boss raises questions, write Scott Rochfort and Michael West.

Grape expectations

Coolangatta Estate 2009 Elizabeth Berry Cabernet Sauvignon $22 This wine has been one of the real surprise packets from Coolangatta Estate which is better known for its outstanding semillon, chardonnay and more recently tempranillo and tanat. Medium bodied with lashings of red and black fruit, nicely balanced oak and rounded tannins. Drink with a rare rump steak.

French take note of au naturel process

A little bit of dung goes a long way in making wine, writes John Lewis.

Cheese lovers get cooking

CALLING all cheese lovers.

Much munching as Maitland makes music

Jumpin' jazz will tempt tasters to dance off their dining delights, writes Anita Beaumont.

nibbles

New chef in the kitchen THE bistro at the Albion Hotel in Wickham has welcomed new head chef James Christensen.

wine list

Dindima 2005 Orange Cabernet Merlot, $35

Spicing up shellfish

THERE is an old wives' tale that circulates regularly stating you should discard any mussels that do not open on cooking.

Shanghai faves in favour

THERE are some tremendous dishes on the menu at New Shanghai but for this diner it's all about the dumplings and pork buns.

CELLAR DOOR

Contratto's new owner

For old times' sake

Heirloom vegetables are a gateway to the past. From a time before the large-scale commercial production of fruits and vegetables began, their seeds were prized and kept, passed down from family to family, hence the name heirloom. Open pollination means the vegetables keep their natural traits, unlike the more homogenous commercial crops bred for consistency.

All so down to earth

Critics don't bother this veteran exponent of biodynamics, writes Jane Faulkner.

For the good of the Earth

Biodynamics is rapidly gaining traction in Australia and tastings reveal its not just for eco-friendly reasons.

Bar hop

Mini Bar@The Inch Address 1 Park Street, Mona Vale, 9999 4483 Open Friday-Saturday, 6pm-midnight

BRAIN FOOD

EACH week we answer your vexing food questions.

UNCORKED

Wine of the week

You can't beat the classics

The legacy of vibrant and tasty heirloom vegetables will remain long after your plate is clean.

TASTINGS

WINE OF THE WEEK

Spice added to the mix

Bistrode Address 478 Bourke Street, Surry Hills. Phone 9380 7333. bistrode.com. Open Dinner,Tue-Sat; lunch,Friday LicensedYes andBYOTue-Thu (corkage $10 a bottle). Cost About $130 for two, plus drinks. 15/20

Short Black

+ He's spent the past two weeks in Australia, now British chef Heston Blumenthal looks set to have a formal role in this country. There's a good chance he will take on a director role, in an advisory capacity, for next year's Melbourne Food and Wine Festival.

OPINION

BIODYNAMIC BEAUTIES

Food fight delights shoppers - and turns struggling suppliers into basket cases

The price war between Coles and Woolworths will be in the spotlight tomorrow when executives from both companies appear before a Senate inquiry into the long-term implications of the battle on the economy.

Processors and farmers the victims when supermarket giants go to war

THE savage price war between Coles and Woolworths will hit the spotlight tomorrow when executives from both companies front a Senate inquiry into the long-term implications on the economy. While the Senate committee was formed in February to investigate the impact on farmers of savage milk discounting, it decided to expand the inquiry into beer and alcohol after The Age exposed a plot that showed beer would have been next if Foster's hadn't intervened and withdrawn key products.

Born again chardonnay

There‚„s a new breed, reports Jeni Port.

Going to ground

hearty and full-flavoured, porcini mushrooms add aN earthy touch to soup and pasta.

WINE

The Future Makers: Australian Wines for the 21st Century

Berlin spirit puts the myth in Smith

WOOD Spoon Kitchen. Monsieur Truffe. Boire. Wabi Sabi Salon. Easy Tiger. Josie Bones. Gigi Baba.

DEALS

Jazz in Fiji

Adventure for the senses

A walking tour of Burgundy's villages reveals culinary and cultural delights, writes Louise Southerden.

DREAM ESCAPE

A few days on Sydney Harbour is enough to make you forget your troubles and feel truly spoiled, writes JANE PARSONS.

BANNOCKBURN FROM GEELONG

Michael Glover pushes the boundaries to produce ever more intriguing wines. These terroir-driven drops speak of their special patch of earth, writes Jane Faulkner.

Out of town

FLICKERFEST

Family delivers a taste of Italy

AUSTRALIA'S MOST NOTORIOUS bushranger Ned Kelly used to roam Victoria's King Valley.

TIPPLE - WINE

Hunter chardonnay doesn't always get the recognition it deserves, but here are three that that are worthy of attention.

Secret flavours of the city

Kate Gibbs samples bars and restaurants favoured by the locals among Venice's network of canals.

Happily fed up at Gills

GILLS DINER A labour of love delivers all-day delights in a laneway setting with style to burn.

FOOD & WINE

LARA FESTIVAL

Beer today, none tomorrow as brewer takes on big chains

As the dust settles on the move by the Foster's beer boss, John Pollaers, to withdraw key products from Woolworths and Coles after three years of loss-leading antics, the spotlight is turning to the power of the retailers and how they have turned the alcohol industry into a price discounting bonanza.

Editor's letter

Don't adjust your set: you are still reading the Age's monthly magazine, the one (I hope) you know and love. Since the last issue we've been hard at work making a few changes about the place - it's been more than six years since the magazine launched (yes, it's that long) and we felt it was time for a bit of updating. Not a scorched earth rebuild, but a renovation. First up, (pause for dramatic effect) we've changed our name ... but only slightly. No longer will you have to contend with the mouthful that was (deep breath) "The Age Melbourne Magazine"; we've shortened it to the much more manageable "The Melbourne Magazine". Inside, we've introduced a bold contemporary design courtesy of creative director Dean Hastie and art director Mark Stehle; we've given some of our much-loved regulars a spring clean; and we've also introduced several new columns, including our search for Melbourne's best brew in Coffee Contender (page 28); a look behind the scenes at a dinosaur factory in Behind Closed Doors (page 34); a new wine writer in the form of the highly regarded Peter Bourne (page 70); a new arts and entertainment section called The Ticket (page 85); and, in our favourite addition, our new back page column, Top 10, this month looks back on some memorable football haircuts. So come on in, have a look around and make yourself at home.

Bars

The "island" under the Yarra Pedestrian Bridge is accessible by a single stairwell and has been redesigned by the entrepreneurial collective of DJ Grant Smillie, Andrew Mackinnon of the Taboo marketing group and Jerome Borazio (The Workers Club in Fitzroy, St Jerome's Laneway Festival). There's free wi-fi, hanging lanterns and cubbyholes for privacy. The kitchen is open all day, but cash only. On tap is Carlton (pot $4, pint $8), Fat Yak (pot $5, pint $9.50), and Bulmers (pot $4.50, pint $9) and wine comes in good ($6) or better ($8). Warning: it can get very packed. The Yarra is the new frontier for hard-to-find city bars.

Adelaide

Stop off in South Australia's capital city before exploring the nearby wine regions.

Adelaide Hills

Less than 30 minutes' drive from the city, Adelaide Hills is one of the world's leading producers of cool-climate wines.

Barossa

About an hour's drive north of Adelaide, the Barossa is the heart of Australia's wine industry, and best known for its shiraz. The€švalley's rich European heritage lives on€šin its quaint villages, historic churches and artisan food producers.

Fine dining and great pub grub

Visitors need never go hungry in the mountains with menu options to suit every taste and budget, writes Keith Austin.

The Gunfight at VB Corral

Foster's has drawn a line in the sand in its beer-pricing battle with Coles and Woolworths.

Further afield

Fancy a road trip? The Coonawarra, Limestone Coast and the Clare Valley

south australia wine region lunch

Join us for an exclusive lunch and day tour in the beautiful Adelaide Hills wine region

What's on

When to visit? Every month in Adelaide and the nearby wine regions there are celebrations of music, food and, of course, all things related to the grape.

Reader Events

Adelaide Hills

McLaren Vale

Nestled between the mountains

Plonk!

Peter Bourne drank, well, a lot of wine last month. Here are four of his favourite drops.

Beer backlash hits retailers

RETAIL giants Woolworths and Coles are facing a growing public backlash and scrutiny in Parliament over their aggressive pricing strategies after the exposure of a plan to sell packaged beer for less than cost.

Penfolds goes shopping for cut-price Penfolds

IT MAY not be a wine war, but the head of Foster's Group sales sent a novel email to his sales staff to use their company credit cards and buy as much Penfolds 389 as they could from Coles liquor outlets.

Retail buggery is beating up everyone

THE Coles-Woolworths price war has been slammed as "retail buggery" by top wine producers.

Students graduate after passing the toughest test

But the classes of 2011 face an uncertain future, writes Michael Wines in Kesennuma.

Beauty of brassica

ALONG with brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower, cabbages are members of the brassica family and are generally regarded as dreary vegetables. However, when used raw or cooked very briefly they can be absolutely delicious.

in the diary

Tonight: Hungerford Hill wine dinner at Talulah. Six courses with matching wines. Still seats available. Costs $99. Bookings essential on 4969 2060.

Rich history dates back to 1820s

THE Wyndham Estate saga began with George Wyndham, who sailed into Sydney in 1827 and bought 445 hectares of land on the Hunter River at Branxton, naming the property Dalwood after a family estate in his native England.

wine list

Wyndham Estate 2008 Bin 525 Shiraz Grenache, $20 to $22

Turn on the tapas for your little bits of heaven

Heading to dinner with friends but can't decide what to eat? Take a tapas tour with Anita Beaumont and try a bit of everything.

Treasured vineyard

Despite losing its Hunter identity, Wyndham Estate is still hallowed ground, writes John Lewis.

Directions from your dashboard

A novel guide helps you make the most of McLaren Vale, writes Kate Jordan-Moore.

Editor's letter

WE DO many things well in this town but the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival is a cracker. Thorsten Schmidt's masterclass was a highlight: the Danish chef and moderator Ben Shewry of Attica seemed kindred spirits. The two spent time on the Bellarine Peninsula, foraging for ingredients that would reflect a coastal experience. Schmidt's approach is to replicate nature and evoke memories where possible, saying each diner brings their experience and reality to the meal: "Yes, it's nice food and all, and we are geeks, but I like to create a frame where the customers are the last ingredient." Schmidt rejects the French way of doing things, admitting he happily takes the mickey out of those often regarded as the masters of all things culinary. "I tease French cuisine, but it's with great respect," he says. "If it weren't for three French chefs who came to Denmark in the '60s and '70s, we wouldn't be here." Our insiders' guide on page 4 provides an insight into many aspects of the event. Elsewhere, check out Guillaume Brahimi's autumn lunch/dinner menu (page 10) and Sue Bennett visits Tetsuya's new restaurant in Singapore (page 14).

French with a twist

A tongue-in-cheek label belies the passion and skill behind these bargain imports.

Cellaring the dream

Much care goes into wine storage, regardless of the scale, writes Mark Hawthorne.

Editor's note

Many consumers are unconcerned about the storage of wine - after all, most buy a bottle or two to drink right away. However, for those who want to lay down (or stand up) their favourites, whether to improve them in flavour or financial terms, it can be a serious affair. For the cover story of our autumn issue, Mark Hawthorne delved into three diverse cellars: a commercial operation, a private collector and a wine club. What he discovered makes for envy-inducing reading. Elsewhere, Ralph Kyte-Powell explains why the syrah - aka shiraz - of New Zealand's Hawke's Bay region is giving its Australian rivals a run for their money, and Jane Faulkner talks to leading sommeliers about the changing face of wine service. If that doesn't give you a thirst, Ralph Kyte-Powell recommends 60 autumn tipples, with something for all budgets, and Jill Dupleix serves up three mouth-watering recipes that will ensure the "eat, drink and be merry'' mission is accomplished.

CELLAR DOOR

On second thoughts

An easy fee to swallow

THE Two Hands winery in Marananga raised almost $33,000 for charity in less than a year by charging a small fee for wine tasting. It's one of two Barossa vineyards that charge for tastings, justifying the move by offering a structured, educational approach rather than pouring to fill visitors' random requests.

$1.2m fix promised for wine stretch

THE Coalition has pledged another $1.2 million for road improvements at Cessnock, this time for an upgrade of Wine Country Drive.

Baked apples with cranberries and almonds

4 royal gala apples 4 tbsp soft butter €€œ cup firmly packed brown sugar 40g dried cranberries 40g slivered almonds tsp ground cinnamon 1 cup dry white wine Vanilla ice-cream to serve

Barhop

The Green Room Lounge Address 156 Enmore Road, Enmore, 8021 8451 Open Tuesday-Thursday, 5pm-midnight; Friday-Saturday, 5pm-1am; Sunday, 5-10pm

Home-grown hampers

Exploring the culinary delights of the Barossa Valley on this self-guided tour is sure to give you an appetite for more, writes Stephanie Clifford-Smith.

Cellar dwellers

Fine-wine collections, from modest to grand

Ripe for the eating

The perfect climate causes growers to flock to the Adelaide Hills, writes Nigel Hopkins.

TASTINGS

WINE OF THE WEEK Vinea Marson Syrah, Heathcote 2008, $43

Tasting Notes

HOW IT'S DONE

The riesling ride

Pedal-powered lovers of wine can soak up some heritage along the way, writes Stephanie Clifford-Smith.

It‚„s a wrap

With more than 250 events, the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival proved tricky to navigate. The Epicure team nominates a few of this year's highlights.

Vintages stuck in the mud

Rain is taking its toll on the industry, writes Jeni Port.

Super-smooth and sweet

Make the most of Australian dessert wine with this reworking of a classic cake.

UNCORKED

Rosemount McLaren Vale District Release Shiraz 2008 $18-$20

Service with some style

A sommelier's craft has transcended merely pouring wine, writes Jane Faulkner.

Play the market

Kate Jordan-Moore works her way through the stalls and nearby shops for a true taste of Adelaide.

OPINION

STRATEGY PAYS OFF

Rise of the Hills

This region close to Adelaide has rapidly become a cellar door destination, writes Nigel Hopkins.

Que? Syrah, syrah?

The variety that screams "Australia" is building a serious reputation across the Tasman, writes Ralph Kyte-Powell.

A written window to the gospel drama

THE GOSSIP AND THE WINE

A legume to stand on

A little forethought can bring out the best in this pantry staple, writes STEVE MANFREDI.

7 reasons to visit Red Hill

1IT'S SHOWTIME

Dual blessings for patrons of a saint

ST JUDE'S CELLARS A heavenly combination of food and wine brings out the best in Brunswick Street.

SEMILLON

The Hunter Valley is famous for young, zesty semillons that morph into complex wines. Now producers outside the region are challenging them, writes Jane Faulkner.

SUNDAY LUNCH

Whistler Cafe, Lancefield Road, Tooborac, 5433 5188. Cafe and cellar door open Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm; Sat-Sun, 10am-5pm.

OUT OF TOWN

MOTOR SPORT

It's an artful plot that's almost enough to turn you off your food

SOMEONE has poisoned your food. Please, do not panic. You must, however, exercise caution, especially when dining with those who use phrases such as "jus" or say, "I'll introduce you to the chef". Such people, often known as gastronomes or foodies, are complicit in the crime of poisoning and, more lately, in gross injury to art.

FOOD & WINE

OLIVE FIESTA