Wine Lesson 171

Sun Herald

Sunday August 3, 2008

Sally Gudgeon

Pinot gris is a versatile food wine

A white mutation of pinot noir, this French grape originated in Burgundy. However, it is more important in Alsace, where it is known as tokay d'Alsace. Wines range from medium-bodied styles to rich, intense stickies made from ultra-ripe grapes. Pinot gris is grown elsewhere in Europe but the largest producer is Italy, where it is called pinot grigio. It is predominantly produced in the north and while some watery, insipid versions result from overcropped vines, top winemakers in Friuli - including Jermann and Livio Felluga - produce delicate, textured styles. The best New World wines come from Oregon in the US, New Zealand and Australia, and they pay tribute to the Italian and French styles. Both the lighter grigios and the richer gris styles complement Asian and Mediterranean foods. Sally Gudgeon

De Bortoli Windy Peak Pinot Grigio 2008, $13

Made from King Valley and Yarra Valley fruit, this fresh, light and easy-drinking Aussie "gridge" captures the essence of the Italian style. It is delicious with a bowl of pasta and a salad.

Nugan Estate Frasca's Lane Vineyard Pinot Grigio 2007, $20

This is surprisingly aromatic for a style that can be neutral on the nose. Look out for the classic fruit characters of pear, citrus and red apple. Serve it with roast chicken.

Yabby Lake Pinot Gris 2007, $44

Yabby Lake's first pinot gris release is more in the French style. It is richer and fuller than a grigio, with sweet fruit on the front palate and a savoury, textured finish.

Try it with Thai green curry.

All wine prices are approximate

© 2008 Sun Herald

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