Wine Lesson 163

Sun Herald

Sunday May 11, 2008

Sally Gudgeon

Nebbiolo will be big in Australia

Nebbiolo, from Piedmont in northern Italy, produces some of that nation's best reds -barolos and barbarescos, with great longevity. In Australia, iconic winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner from Giaconda in Beechworth, Victoria, has grafted the pinot noir vines in his Nantua vineyard to nebbiolo. Fred Pizzini, from Pizzini in the King Valley, has worked with the variety for 25 years and produces magnificent wines with it. As well as releasing a varietal wine, he blends it with shiraz, cabernet and sangiovese. Other regions doing well with nebbiolo include the Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale, Heathcote, Hunter Valley and Mudgee. The classic description is "tar and roses", and the variety has high acid and tannin levels. Australian versions tend to have more overt fruit than the Italians. Sally Gudgeon

Trentham Estate

La Famiglia Nebbiolo 2004, $15

This fruit-driven style from the Murray Darling has dark fruit and spice notes. In the mouth it's juicy and vibrant, if a little lightweight. Match it with a salami baguette.

Tar & Roses Nebbiolo 2006, $39

Made by Don Lewis and Narelle King from Heathcote fruit, this smells of spice, wild flowers and dark berries, with sweet fruit on the front palate, firm tannins and bright acid. Try it with lamb.

Pizzini Nebbiolo 2003, $45

A true nebbiolo style, this has the haunting scent of rose petals and damp earth. It is elegant and balanced, with silky tannins and great depth of flavour. Serve it with braised oxtail.

All wine prices are approximate

© 2008 Sun Herald

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