Wine Lesson 159

Sun Herald

Sunday April 20, 2008

Sally Gudgeon

Cool-climate wines are hot

The climate in which grapes grow has a huge impact on the style of wine they produce. Pinot noir, pinot gris, riesling, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc will not produce the best wine possible in a warm climate. This is because grapes grown in cool climates take longer to ripen, thus developing more complex, balanced and subtle flavours. A longer ripening period also results in lower sugar levels (and thus lower alcohol content) and better acid retention. Warmer climates suit grenache, mourvedre (mataro), shiraz and zinfandel, which produce robust, gutsy wines, often high in alcohol. Cabernet sauvignon is suited to a range of climates, making rich wines with plum and chocolate notes in a warm climate but more red berry/cedar/blackcurrant characters in cooler regions.

Leaping Lizard Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $14

From WA's Great Southern region, this blend smells of red apples and passionfruit. It's tight, lean and fresh with crunchy acidity. Match it with roast pork.

King River Estate Merlot 2005, $20

King Valley is emerging as one of Victoria's prime cool-climate regions. This merlot is brimming with mulberry and bramble notes, and it's fresh and full of fruit in the mouth. Serve it with quail.

Grosset Piccadilly Chardonnay 2006, $53

The Adelaide Hills produces some of SA's best cool-climate wines. This example has finesse and complexity, with delicate fruit notes and well-balanced acid. Try it with seafood risotto.

All wine prices are approximate

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