Wine Lesson 148

Sun Herald

Sunday February 3, 2008

Sally Gudgeon

Not all white grapes need oak

There is enormous synergy between oak and some white grape varieties. Aromas such as vanilla, nuts and toast, which add complexity to chardonnay, are oak-derived. At the top of the scale, expensive French oak barrels are used but for the more commercial styles, winemakers use oak chips and powder to give that oaky flavour. Sometimes an unwooded chardonnay is preferable to one made with inferior oak. Not all white varieties need oak. Riesling, gewurztraminer, sauvignon blanc and semillon can be delicious without it. Hunter semillons and some rieslings will acquire toasty notes with bottle age. It depends on the style of wine as to whether pinot gris or viognier sees oak or not. Older oak enhances the texture of a wine, so some winemakers choose this option for pinot gris.

Annie's Lane Riesling 2007, $20

Sourced from excellent vineyards in the Clare Valley, this riesling smells of lemons and green apples, with the citrus note flowing through onto the palate. Match it with Asian dishes.Tower Estate Hunter Valley Semillon 2007, $26

In its youth, Hunter semillon is watery clear and subtle. This one will age well; it has excellent texture and length and the delicate fruit is perfectly balanced with acidity. Serve it with oysters.

Henschke Joseph Hill Gewurztraminer 2007, $35

Gewurztraminer can shout its identity out of the glass but this Eden Valley example is more restrained. It's floral rather than spicy, with vibrant fruit and fresh acidity. Try it with honey soy chicken.

All wine prices are approximate

© 2008 Sun Herald

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