Tasting Notes - Us Versus Them

The Age

Wednesday November 26, 2008

Jeni Port

It's every wine for itself as we pit like with like from them (South Africa, Chile, Spain, France) and us.

SPARKLING ROSE, LESS THAN $20

Gratien and Meyer rose non-vintage (France, $20)

Developed sparkling from the Loire Valley with a lively floral scent of spring flowers and roses, followed by wild strawberries and raspberries on the palate with touch of sweetness. Grapes are cabernet franc and grolleau.

(Available: Liquorland)

Taltarni Brut Tache 2006

(Victoria, $19.95)

An attractive pale salmon in colour, Tache blends chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier into a crisp, lip-smacking aperitif. Although slightly neutral to start, with a whiff of strawberries, it opens on the palate with strawberries and cream flavours, and has a distinctive creamy texture.

PINOT GRIGIO

Ruffino Lumina 2007 pinot grigio

(Italy, $14.99)

Finely structured grigio from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region that is fresh and light with delicate sea spray and minerals on the nose, followed by a distinctive lemon-rind flavour. Finishes very dry.

(Available: Vintage Cellars)

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi 2008 pinot grigio (Victoria, $15)

No doubt what this is: strong varietal scent of citrus, hay and pear with hint of sea spray/rockpool aroma. Varietal signature continues on palate with added spiciness. Great balance with firm acidity.

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Cono Sur 2007 sauvignon blanc

(Chile, $9.99)

A subdued (at least by New Zealand standards) savvy of real charm at a great price. Lifted aromas (snow peas) open on to lively palate with savoury dried herb overtones (marjoram) and minerals.

(Available: First Choice)

Yalumba Y Series 2008 sauvignon blanc (South Australia, $12.95)

Scent of fresh fruit salad is an attractive introduction to this wine, which continues fruity and juicy with lots of citrus interplay on the palate. The finish is surprisingly sharp.

CHARDONNAY

Paul Mas 2007 chardonnay

(France, $8.90)

Hails from the south of France and shows the kind of fresh, sunny fruit in the glass to which Australia once owned the rights. Smart, attractive wine with loads of personality: light tropical fruits on nose, and vibrant juicy characters on palate that last and last. Dangerously quaffable.

(Available: Dan Murphy's)

McWilliam's Hanwood Estate 2006 chardonnay (Australia, $8.99)

Ripe and full, this two-year-old Aussie chardy needs to be enjoyed now. The tropical bowl is here with banana, peach and melon on the nose, opening up on the palate with sweet fruit and a canned pineapple character that you might - or might not - find appealing.

SHIRAZ

Arrogant Frog Lily Pad Red 2007 shiraz/viognier (France, $9.90)

There's plenty to like here: its vivid garnet colour, the scent of stewed plums, cinnamon spice and red berries following through to a firm, medium-bodied palate featuring berry fruits, minerals, bitter chocolate and a tannic, dry finish.

(Available: Dan Murphy's)

Lindemans 2007 Bin 50 shiraz (Australian blend, $10.95)

Bin 50 is a strong, consistent performer that began not in Australia but on the overseas market. It shows with its in-your-face, upfront fruit and heavy oak (de rigueur in the 1990s).

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Angove's Long Row 2007 cabernet sauvignon (South Australia, $7.99)

Full, round, soft with plenty of fruit, Long Row gives the archetypal taste of Australian cabernet without the alcoholic jamminess. Blackberry and plums on the nose develops into a nicely tannic palate with spice, dusty plums and herbs.

Montes 2007 cabernet sauvignon

(Chile, $8.99)

Chilean reds are softer than clouds, distinguished by dusty, light tannin structures and velvety fruit. Everything goes down very smoothly indeed with warm blackberry pie aromas, black fruits and raspberries with lavender-type florals.

(Available: Dan Murphy's)

-- JENI PORT

© 2008 The Age

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