Wine Lesson 180

Sun Herald

Sunday October 5, 2008

Sally Gudgeon

Are zinfandel and primitivo really the same grape?

Recent DNA profiling has revealed that primitivo and zinfandel are in

fact the same grape, but with some clonal variation. While primitivo's history in Apulia, in south-east Italy, can be traced back to the ancient civilisations that settled there, zinfandel arrived in California in the 1880s and is now the state's most planted red grape. Zinfandel arrived in Australia in the 1970s and has become popular here. Both names are legally acceptable and are becoming interchangeable. In an ordered wine world, "primitivo" should denote a lighter, more Italian style, whereas "zinfandel" should be used for more robust, high-alcohol styles that pay homage to the big Californian reds - but this is not necessarily the case.

Italia Primitivo 2006, $16

This lighter Italian style, with 13.5 per cent alcohol, smells of raspberries, dark cherries and herbs. It has appealing sweet and sour flavours on the palate and

a savoury finish. Match it with lamb chops.

Kangarilla Road Primitivo 2006, $22

Of Kangarilla Road's two varieties, this is lighter and pays tribute to Italian styles with its aromas of cherries, rhubarb and herbs, and savoury notes on the palate. Try it with pasta with ragout.

Kangarilla Road Black St. Peters Zinfandel 2006, $34

This is a classic style with aromas of licorice, brambles, mocha and Cherry Ripe. It has slightly less alcohol (15.5 per cent) than the primitivo (16 per cent). Serve it with hard cheese.

All wine prices are approximate

© 2008 Sun Herald

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